But given the Bulletproof’s heft and price tag, we’d only recommend using the draw where it really counts. The nose is narrow for easy clipping, the carabiners are large, the dogbone is nice and thick, and the whole thing screams quality. If you use quickdraws for top-roping anchors or want one burly draw for the first clip (this one sees the most wear from the rope), the Bulletproof is the most, well, bulletproof draw there is.Įven if it weren’t for the steel insert, this is an incredible draw. Steel is heavier than aluminum but much more durable, so Edelrid got smart by adding it only where it counts.
Kenosha quickdraw competition plus#
It has all of the features we look for in a top-of-the-line sport draw, plus extra durability and strength in the form of a small steel insert on the rope-end carabiner. If the Petzl Spirit Express is the Cadillac of quickdraws, the Edelrid Bulletproof might be the Hummer. What we like: The most durable, high-quality draw on the market. You do get what you pay for though-the MiniWire does not have a keylock closure (on the flip side, this matters less when you’re clipping cams instead of bolts), and the dogbone isn't super stiff, making it more difficult to reach a far-off bolt. For a nice middle ground, it’s worth considering Black Diamond’s LiteWire Quickdraw ($20 73g), which combines a similarly streamlined dogbone with slightly bigger carabiners, making it a better ultralight option for those with large hands. It's also relatively affordable (when you’re buying 12 draws, the cost quickly adds up), and the large carabiners are easy to operate. With a 12-centimeter dogbone, the MiniWire clocks in at a lightweight 53 grams. All in all, it’s a great pick for longer routes when it’s more important to have a lightweight rack than a robust draw for hangdogging. And instead of the rigid dogbone design of many draws here, the MiniWire has a thin, flexible build. MiniWire carabiners are a relatively new addition to Black Diamond’s lineup, combining a sub-1-ounce weight with a generous 21-millimeter gate opening.
What we don’t: Non-keylocking design, not easy to clip to reachy bolts.īlack Diamond’s HotForge and HotWire below are great options for sport climbers, but for trad climbers looking to streamline their setup, the MiniWire is one of our favorite quickdraws. What we like: Versatile, lightweight, and affordable. But for a sport climbing draw, either for redpointing or leaving on a project for an extended period, this is the best model money can buy.īest Ultralight Quickdraw 2. In fact, we’d be surprised if a Spirit Express has ever made it into the alpine, and we certainly wouldn’t want to clip it to a direction-dependent nut. But while it’s ideal for sport climbing, the Spirit's weight and bulk mean that it’s not a super versatile draw. Petzl dropped the price considerably this year (from $25 down to $20 for the 11cm version), which means the Spirit Express is not only a premium quickdraw, but an affordable one at that. The Spirit is equally easy to stick clip or grab when the good holds run out, and the whole unit is so rigid that you can hold onto the bottom end of the draw and still clip an out-of-reach bolt. All the materials are ridiculously strong and durable, including the rubber grommet that keeps the rope-side carabiner from flipping over. What’s not to like about this Cadillac of a quickdraw? The carabiners are super smooth, the dogbones are stable-feeling, and these things are, quite simply, really fun to clip. It should come as no surprise that Petzl’s tried-and-true Spirit comes in at the top of this list. What we don’t: A bit pricey and not versatile. What we like: Great handling and comfortable clipping.
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